First site visit in Kalicero

27-8-12

We had been in country all but 3 days when we were told to pack our things and prepare for a camping trip in the bush. Our initial stay at the barn motel was comforting. It gave us a chance to develop relationships with other PCT's, PCV's, staff members and better understand what we were getting into. But just as we were settling in and our jet lag was wearing away, we were told to began packing once more for a tour across the country. It was called 'First Site visit', and it was a chance for us to get our first taste of what life in a village consisted of, and weather we had made the right decision in coming to Zambia. We were divided into small groups and sent in land cruisers to different parts of the country to live with an experienced PCV for a few days and shadow their daily activities. We were following directions and had little idea as to what we were about to experience.


After packing the bare essentials, I hoped in a land cruiser with my group and headed out to the Eastern Province, to a district called Petauke to a village called Chataika not far from the Zambia/ Mozambique boarder. We were looking at a 6 hour ride on one of the only paved roads in Zambia, very windy and very dangerous. Lucky for us, our driver was not only safe, but also kind enough to answer questions and teach us some basic survival phrases in Nyanja along the way as our anxieties were rather high. We made a few stops, one at a market to purchase vegetables. The pit stop was our first real encounter with bush locals. When we exited the car, all eyes in the market were fixed on our every move, business seemed to come to a brief halt and we felt like quite the spectacle for a good five minutes. Initially we huddled together like timid sheep, apprehensive to wander and mingle. I was even asked to escort a few PCT's to the bathroom. It took some courage, but I eventually decided to make a move and purchase an egg sandwich at a food stand near by. I felt semi confident about voicing the little language skill I had, yet when I approached the stand, nerves set in and I completely forgot even the most basic greetings. It was a poor first attempt at making a simple business transaction. Eventually I snapped out of my daze and played charades until I walked away with what I had originally set out for, yet with not the slightest clue as to weather or not I had been swindled or over charged which was likely.


The remainder of the ride to the east was educating. We passed by many small villages some baboons and a slew of overturned semi-trucks. I was very curious to know why so many vehicles were overturned(and I still don't have a satisfying answer) and the only reason I was given is that drinking and driving is not an uncommon thing in Zambia, even among truck drivers transporting precious cargo, and when you combine dangerous roads and drunk drivers..needless to say you get accidents. The most dangerous hazard for all PCV's (I was surprised to find) is transportation. We traveled over an impressive bridge, saw crocodiles and noticed much of the countryside engulfed in active fires. Another depressing country fact (and there are many) is that Zambia is the number one deforested country in the world, mainly because the people use charcoal for their cooking (which is a product of trees) and also because its a way to control their foliage, yet the method they utilize is very damaging to the environment, and there is little action among the people to change this pressingly serious environmental hazard. It is predicted that in 5 years, Zambia will be a completely deforested country. A depressing scenario to visualize.


When we eventually arrived at our designated PCV site we were delighted to find motivated and proactive volunteers that welcomed us with open arms. Our site host was a PCV's named Chuck(aka Chuckson) and living with him was his finance Jen. Visiting him from other sites close by were Caleb, a LIFE volunteer, and Johnathan another RAP volunteer. They were all delighted to see us and were more then helpful in answering all of questions throughout our stay. Chuck had a background in animal science and had a number of relevant side projects valuable to his village, including multiple successful fish ponds. He had a rabbit pin, Chicken Coup (with over 70 chickens), a bee keeping side project (in your face Maren) and he was introducing turkeys to the province for the first time. Many neighbors and villagers would spend hours just staring at the Turkeys outside his hut. Caleb was a LIFE volunteer(agriculture) and very knowledgeable in all the fauna around the area. Johnathan was an expert at fish farming and in speaking Nyanja. It was inspiring to see him communicate with the locals as his skills were equivalent to any other born and raised villager. And Jen had been in country for over three years and seemed the most experienced and pleasantly affected by African living, it gave me hope that not everyone goes crazy from spending too much time in the bush.


Throughout our entire stay we laughed, joked, learned and discovered many great ways about how to find success as a PCV. We saw first hand each of Chuck's projects and were more then impressed by the quality relations that he had developed with each and everyone of his village counterparts. He was an active member in working towards community development and all of the revenue that could have been accumulated by his projects were donated to the local school.


One day we took a tour of his village, meet the head man, took a hike to a distant peak/mountain to witness an incredible view of much of the countryside including Mozambique. We harvested one of his fish ponds and had hands on experience ahead of any other PCT's in being able to see what goes into the final product of a successful fish harvest. Chuck and I participated in a village soccer match that the villagers enjoyed so much they insisted on me saying a speech afterwards that was translated by Chuck and in doing so I had won the hearts and handshakes of many of the villagers that I had played with.


On the last evening of our stay we were fortunate enough to witness the cultural dances specific to the Eastern Province called Meyow dancing. Meyow dancing was a cultural right of passage for young men passing into manhood, a sacred ritual performed only a few times during the year. Young boys would dress in cultural headdress and dance and parade about in a large circle to the beating of drums and chants of other villagers. It was a provocative and culturally rich experience. We were invited to sit in the very front row and witness the impressive events unfold. It was similar to what I would have expected from African culture and an absolute pleasure to be apart of and bear witness to.


That night we had fish tacos from the pond harvest earlier, homemade peanut butter and tortillas (that Jen should us how to make) and African wine. Johnathan and myself set off a box of fireworks that he had been saving for a special occasion and what made it especially amusing was that the villagers had never witnessed fireworks before. It was there first ever 'Fourth of July' experience, and seeing the astonishment and awe on their faces as we put on a show put a lot in perspective for me about what we take for granted in America. It was a little taste of American Culture in Zambia brought about by Johnathan and myself. Hearing the excitement and joy as the villagers witnessed the fireworks go off was something I will never forget. They had showed us a rich side of their culture, as we had showed them a part of ours. It was my first noteworthy exchange of cultural practices in my time in Zambia and it couldn't have gone any better. For the remainder of the night, we sat around a campfire, drank wine, sang Beatles songs by guitar, conversed merrily and reflected upon all we had learned and done in the short few days we had been at his site. We all had an incredible time and were inspired by all we had seen and participated in during our stay...it was awesome.


In the morning we packed our bags and said our good byes to Chuck, Jen, Caleb, Johnathan and a few friends we had made in the village. We were all more then grateful at having such a proactive and model PCV and we didn't really know how lucky we were until we arrived back at the barn and discovered how all of the other PCT's first site visits had gone compared to our own. Not one PCT was able to depict an experience anywhere as rich, exciting and memorable. In fact It was unfortunate to hear that many others had a more negative experiences then positives one where their PCV host lacked motivation, side projects and in general the rigor and drive that Chuck and the rest of the PCT's had at our site. I felt sorry for the others and at the same time thankful that Chuck was our host. Seeing his success gave me so many ideas and a clear understanding at the potential that PC can offer that I felt that I was given a notable advantage compared to others, without which I doubt I would possess as much motivation as I have now.


A few days after settling back into the barn I had learned that Chuck was also inspired by my motivation and charisma towards modeling much of my experience after his. I had expressed my willingness and interest in taking over his site and or duplicating many of his innovative ideas depending where I would be posted. His COS (close of service) was exactly around the time we would be swearing in and he would be looking to have his site replaced by an incoming volunteer to carry on his work from our intake .Yet the decision would not be up to him or me as to whom would be his replacement. Despite this, and the fact that we weren't suppose to be designated a site for some time, I learned that he had requested me specifically to other staff members as a suitable candidate and a preference for picking up where he would leave off. I was flattered and enthralled to learn of the news and had a new tangible goal to work towards. Knowing exactly where I was going to be posted weeks ahead of any of my peers gave me drive and motivation to take PST serious and strive to achieve as much success and knowledge as possible to further his work in the village.


I will never forget my first site visit to Chataika and the wonderful motivated PCT's that evoked so much inspiration as to what the PC experience can amount to. There is no question now in my mind that I am exactly where I am suppose to be and I can't wait to get started picking up where Chuck will soon leave off at my future post in the Eastern Province of Zambia. I have big shoes to fill, big plans in the making and a lot to learn as I set out to begin my volunteer work as a Peace Corps volunteer. BIG THANGS await and the first step is only 11 weeks away..